A sophisticated wardrobe guides series for modern men. Uman. The Essays is a series of commentaries by contemporary connoisseurs (authors, journalists, and cultured men), who explore the sources of men's costume  sports, discovery, passions  to reveal the traditions and ethos at the basis of the ideal wardrobe. It is a project by Umberto Angeloni, former chief executive of Brioni, an Italian luxury lifestyle brand with global diffusion. The last 2011 title of the Uman series is devoted to elegant evening wear. Nick Foulkes is the critically acclaimed author of  Dancing into Bottle: A Social History of the Battle of Waterloo and at least a dozen other books on subjects as diverse as the history of the trench coat and American high society:  Griswold did it and  America invented the Dinner Jacket. It was the autumn of 1986 and the AFA /American Formalwear Association) was in a jubilant mood with a series of selfcongratulatory advertisements, celebrating the passage of 100 years, since October 10, 1886, the date a snappily dressed young man revelling in the splendid name Griswold,  Grizzy to his friends, Lorillard walked into the Tuxedo Club for the Autumn Ball, wearing an evening tailcoat& only sans tails...