A sophisticated wardrobe guides series for modern men. Uman. The Essays is a series of commentaries by contemporary connoisseurs (authors, journalists, and cultured men), who explore the sources of men's costume  sports, discovery, passions  to reveal the traditions and ethos at the basis of the ideal wardrobe. It is a project by Umberto Angeloni, former chief executive of Brioni, an Italian luxury lifestyle brand with global diffusion. Tracht is a traditional costume used in German-speaking countries. Joachim Besser is a German author and a journalist:  & We can assume that the Tracht jacket first appeared as a functional item of clothing back in the late Middle Ages. An item with such a history, such an unbroken line of tradition, is fated to become a vehicle for a post-modern fashion designer s imagination. For the 2010 spring season in the Parisian Grand Palais, Karl Lagerfeld issued an invitation to the barnyard and the models walked their rounds in Tracht dresses and Chanel clogs&